Breeding Your Bunny

Breeding your doe should not be done without careful consideration. What is your intent and expectations? My purpose is for the love of this rabbit and to perfect the breed following the standards expressed by the American Rabbit Breeders Association.

The French Lop rabbit develops slowly to its sexual maturity. The doe must be healthy and in good condition between 10 and 12 months of age. Conception can be influenced by several factors:

The doe being very protective of her own cage, is brought to the buck's cage for mating. If both rabbits are receptive, mating is usually accomplished soon. The pair should never be left together unattended. Pregnancy can be verified by the breeder who is experienced with the proper palpating technique at about two weeks after mating. Palpation must be done correctly and gently to prevent injury to the embryos. The gestation period averages 31 days.

Many breeders supply the nest box to the doe at approximately 27-28 days of gestation. I have been told that to provide a nest box early can result in the doe using it as a "toilet." This is not necessarily true however. I personally have had bunnies "ask" for their boxes early without any problems. If I observe a restless, stressed doe digging in the corners of her cage, I usually will provide her a box and nesting materials. She will immediately commence to nest building. I now have a bunny that is content and happy. Learn to observe what your lop is trying to communicate: "give me my nest box now, please!"

There are several types and sizes of nest boxes. These need to be large to accommodate a doe and litter. As a general guideline this large breed requires a box 22 inches long, 12 inches wide and 10 inches high.

	This is the style of box that I normally use. It is made of plywood. The bottom has holes in the corners for drainage. The bonnet on the top affords a resting place for the doe (seldom see it used) and protects the kits (babies) from being inadvertently jumped on by the doe as she enters the box. The hole in the front offers the kits easy access to and from the nest.
	This is the style used by breeder Vicky Ott of Norco, CA. I have also used it with success. The "open" top offers more room for the doe and allows her easy entry and exit. The unique front has a sliding door covering a large hole. This is closed at kindling time, however can be removed at 2 weeks when the kits start jumping out. The risk of injury from the kits climbing over the top is reduced. The wood construction provides insulation and warmth.
	The metal box is lightweight. It may require anchoring to prevent movement. It offers the advantage of easy cleaning, however can be cooler than wood boxes. The kits can be exposed to cold sides and bottom. This box probably should not be used during the colder months of the year. A cardboard liner can be used for insulation.

"Kindling," giving birth, commonly occurs early in the morning. Litters can be as large as 8 to 12 kits. Babies are born hairless with closed eyes. Newborns are very susceptible to cold and require a stable ambient temperature.

The doe pulls fur usually immediately prior to giving birth. The combination of fur and proper nesting materials should provide adequate insulation to protect the young from hypothermia.

These babies are 5 days old with a light coat of fur.

After kindling it is important to check the litter, remove any dead babies and insure that the nest is clean. Separated kits should be placed with their siblings. Verify that they are adequately covered and secure. Check the cage area also to see if any kits were born on the wire. This can and does happen. Unfortunately, unless caught within a few minutes, these kits will die due to exposure.

I remove the nest box at 14 to 21 days depending on weather conditions. A nest that is heavily soiled will contribute to disease and infected eyes in the young.

Remember to clean the box well afterwards with a solution of bleach and water or other suitable disinfectant.